North India: Amritsar and Rishikesh

Amritsar The golden temple in the sunset We traveled to Amritsar and arrived at the poshest but least characterful hotel - it was nice to have hot water on demand, fluffy towels and a warm environment for a change. e stopped at a restaurant for breakfast in the rich countryside of the Punjab that was growing crops, veg and flowers with dairy farms. It was noticeably cleaner and more prosperous than the area around Delhi. At first the fact that this hotel was far from the centre was a disappointment but we quickly saw that with our excellent driver we were able to visit the center as much as needed without having another sticky, noisy hotel. After a short rest we were off to the centre of Amritsar - a large pedestrian only area full of people and speakers relaying the prayers from the temple. Although crowed the atmosphere was very gentle and easy going with a lot of good will, even towards some obvious western tourists. We had over an hour wandering around but...