North India: Amritsar and Rishikesh

Amritsar

The golden temple in the sunset

We traveled to Amritsar and arrived at the poshest but least characterful hotel - it was nice to have hot water on demand, fluffy towels and a warm environment for a change. e stopped at a restaurant for breakfast in the rich countryside of the Punjab that was growing crops, veg and flowers with dairy farms. It was noticeably cleaner and more prosperous than the area around Delhi.

At first the fact that this hotel was far from the centre was a disappointment but we quickly saw that with our excellent driver we were able to visit the center as much as needed without having another sticky, noisy hotel. 

After a short rest we were off to the centre of Amritsar - a large pedestrian only area full of people and speakers relaying the prayers from the temple. Although crowed the atmosphere was very gentle and easy going with a lot of good will, even towards some obvious western tourists. We had over an hour wandering around but did not got into the central temple as the queue would have been two or more hours long. 

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That evening we had the local speciality puri in a local pure veg restaurant that was also provided a take out and delivery of their food.

Next day we were back to see the temple again, and queued up for around an hour in a jammed but friendly crowd.

After that we visited the memorial to a massacre by the British in the early 20th century that was attributed to a wide sense of injustice that contributed to the political drive for independence.

 Political topiary in the garden showing British Soldiers in firing positions 

Later that day we made the short trip to the Wagah border to see the amazing flag lowering ceremony. We arrive two hours early to get a good seat and to experience the build up. It was amazing - we were all 'team India' competing in cheering and shouting against 'team Pakistan' just a few yards away across the border. Crowds of Indian women were encouraged to run up and down with flags and dance en-mass in front of the border gates. The sound system was cranked up to 11 and used to drown out anything going on across the border. The whole thing was 'compared' by an enthusiastic game show host - although also an officer in the border security force, complete with combat fatigues and flack jacket

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When marching these guys would step so high that they would hit the plume on their turban.

We left Amritsar to catch an overnight train at 10:00pm. The worst part of this was to leave our wonderful driver who managed to safely negotiate many miles of dangerous road that required constant concentration for hours on end.

The group were booked into bunks scattered over a couple of carriages - at various heights. We had been booked onto the bottom bunks but swapped with members of an extended Indian family so that we could stay on the top bunk and avoid the large evening meal that was unfolding below. The train was slow but steady and not too noisy, so we managed to get some sleep. Others were not so lucky - Barbara being at least 6ft had a bunk by the door so that every time someone went through it banged against her feet.

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Rishikesh

We transferred from Haridwar station to a private bus that was taking us to Rishikesh, about an hour and a half away. We were in a group daze after most of us had little or no sleep. We stopped for breakfast which took a long time as everything was cooked from scratch but for once we were good for time so could relax. The hotel in Rishikesh was lovely and although close to the busy road had a tranquil garden with a really good restaurant.

Green Hills hotel garden

Later that afternoon we went on a long walk across the river, past many 'ashrams' and to the temple on the Ganges.

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At the temple we bought an offering and made a pujar for Amini and Shevitan, parents in our Indian family  who we had stayed with on previous visits to India but who have since passed on.

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The next day we were off to the jungle - well glamping in the forest. The trip from Rishikesh to the campsite followed the Ganges which was green and wild with many white water rafters bobbing along. The scene could have been from colorado. Our campsite was peaceful and the tents had beds and electricity.

Walking in the forest to a waterfall - we were told that this could be done in flip-flops but it was telling that the local guide was wearing walking boots and there were many difficult rocks to negotiate. However, a lovely area and a small but beautiful waterfall.

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We had a glorious evening with a campfire and bright moon shining down on the forest. Unfortunately after nearly five weeks Mike managed to get a tummy bug and was trotting across the campsite most of the night. This carried on for nearly a week so was more likely to be a bug than something up with the food.
Next day was Holi - with lots of colour, wild behaviour and almost everything closed - including small things like hotel restaurants.

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Later that day we headed back to the train station and had another very comfortable trip in the AC chair class, along with snacks and water.

We were glad to get back to the same hotel we left as we had an early start for our flight the next day. That evening we said farewell to most of the group all of whom had been great companions and would be missed. We had an adequate flight from Jet - (seats seem to be very close together and hard not to rub shoulders with a stranger for 10 hours) but at least it was non-stop and at a reasonable time of day. The flight from Delhi was longer than usual as, due to recent problems, we had to avoid Pakistan airspace. Finally we returned to Cathy's Mum and Dad to stay the night and pick up our car.

 Back in UK, Roger and Rosemary with presents from our Indian family

Back home, our house and garden are waiting for us.